Saturday, June 4, 2011

I Heart Tarts


There was a point where I was obsessed with making tarts. It all started when I ran across Andre Soltner's recipe for his famous tart a l'oignon. Andre Soltner was born in 1932 in Alsace, France, where tarts such as this one, are traditional cuisine. Soltner is known for popularizing fine French cuisine in the United States. He became the chef-owner of Lutece, a fine French restaurant in Manhattan, and Lutece was famous not only for its chef, but for its tart a l'oignon, the exact onion tart that began my obsession.

You will need a couple things to make Soltner's Alsation Onion Tart: a tart pan and some patience (if you attempt to make your own pastry. You can always buy premade pie pastry. I won't judge you.). This thing took 4 hours in total to make the first time (I have since gotten much quicker)! But this is art and so worth the time and energy it took to make it. The ingredients are really simple, but all together, it's something much, much more. It's light and creamy, yet rich in flavor. The bacon doesn't over-power the onion, but compliments it perfectly.

For pastry:
  • 2 cups flour
  • 1 stick butter- cold and cut into small cubes
  • 1/4 cup vegetable shortening
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 4 tablespoons ice-cold water
For filling:
  • 4 slices bacon (1/4 lb)- cut into small pieces
  • 3 tablespoons butter
  • 2 lbs onion, thinly sliced or chopped
  • 1 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon black pepper
  • 1 cup creme fraiche or heavy cream
  • 4 large eggs
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
  1. First start by making the pastry. Blend together flour, butter, shortening, and salt in a bowl with a pastry blender or pulse in a food processor (I blended mine with a pastry paddle in my Kitchenaid). Blend just until most of mixture resembles course meal with small pea-size lumps. Drizzle with cold water and gently stir with a fork or pulse processor until incorporated.
  2. Being careful not to over-mix, roll dough into ball, split in half, and wrap each ball in plastic to keep it from drying out. Put in fridge for at least an hour.
  3. Roll dough out on floured surface with floured rolling-pin. Fit into a tart pan and trim excess dough. Put back into fridge for 30 minutes.
  4. Line shell with tin foil and fill with pie weights (I used rice). Bake at 400 degrees for 15-20 minutes. Remove foil and weights and bake shell for 10-15 minutes or until golden brown.
  5. While the crust is cooking, start on the filling. Cook the bacon in large skillet over moderate heat until crisp. Transfer bacon to paper towels to drain and pour off bacon fat. Add butter to skillet and cook onions with 3/4 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper, until wilted. Cover skillet and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until very soft and pale golden. Stir in bacon and remove from heat to cool.
  6. Whisk together cream, eggs, nutmeg, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Then stir in onion and bacon.
  7. Pour filling into shell, spreading out onions evenly, and bake for 25-35 minutes. It's ready when the filling is set and the top is golden. 

I love that I can use a basic formula and add whatever ingredients I want to make my own tart. Here are a couple more of my favorite recipes.

Goat Cheese Tart
Here is a link to a friend's recipe for her goat cheese tart which inspired my own version: Sliced Strawberries' Goat Cheese Tart. I stuck with Soltner's pastry recipe and here is my filling:
  • 1 cup finely chopped shallot and garlic
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 10 oz soft goat cheese
  • 1 cup creme fraiche or heavy cream
  • 4 large eggs
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
  1. Follow steps 1 through 4 from Soltner's recipe above.
  2. While the crust is cooking, start on the filling. Saute the shallots and garlic in butter until fragrant and tender.
  3. Mix together the goat cheese, cream, eggs, rosemary, salt and pepper until smooth. Mix in shallots and garlic. Pour filling into the shell and bake for 30-40 minutes. It's ready when the filling is set in the middle.

The Man Tart
This tart combines potato, onion, bacon, and Gruyère, but still manages to be light! I like to call this my "man tart" because men love it. For filling:
  • 2-3 slices of bacon, chopped
  • 1 cup finely chopped onion
  • 1 medium potato, peeled and grated (with cheese grater, wring out excess water)
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 1 cup Gruyère cheese, grated
  • 1 cup creme fraiche or heavy cream
  • 4 large eggs
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
  1. Follow steps 1 through 4 from Soltner's recipe.
  2. While the crust is cooking, start on the filling. Cook the bacon in large skillet over moderate heat until crisp. Transfer bacon to paper towels to drain and pour off bacon fat.
  3. Add butter to skillet and cook onions with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper, until wilted. Add potato and cook until tender.
  4. Mix together the cream and eggs until smooth. Mix in the potato and onion mixture, the cheese, and the bacon. Pour filling into the shell and bake for about 30 minutes. It’s ready when the filling is set in the middle.

Delicious!

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